Compost is what remains when organic matter has reached its ultimate state of decomposition. Also called humus, compost has a dark, crumbly texture with an earthy aroma and when added to your soil, is probably the most potent fertilizer you can get your hands on.
Packed with beneficial bacteria, microbes and mineral nutrients, compost is what helps produce those big, healthy, relentless ‘givers’ that every food gardener dreams about.
-
➡Compost grows stronger, healthier, bigger plants
-
➡Saves you money on soil amendments and fertilizer
-
➡Provides food for earthworms encouraging them to multiply
-
➡Improves your plant resistance to disease and pests
-
➡Optimizes soil chemistry and saves water
And it’s truly the gift that keeps on giving, because compost not only does all this, but making your own greatly reduces landfill and greenhouse gas emissions in city dumps. And here’s the best part – anyone can do it.
So how do I get started?
To make your own compost you need only three essential ingredients.
Water Air Organic stuff
Water and air are the no-brainers. ‘Organic stuff’ is simply a mix of wet
and dry materials (leaves, grass clippings, and food wastes) called ‘Greens’ and ‘Browns’.
Greens (wet)
• Fruit & vegetable scraps
• Houseplants
• Green plant trimmings
• Weeds that haven’t gone to seed
• Coffee grounds and tea bags
• Bread, pasta, cereal
• Hair
• Grass clippings
• Wilted flowers
Browns (Dry)
• Dry leaves
• Hay or straw
• Wood chips
• Sawdust (use sparingly)
• Dryer lint
• Dried grass clippings
• Shredded cardboard or paper (mix in well or it clumps)
As you can see there is a wide variety of compostable materials available to almost anyone. In fact you can make your own rich dark humus with nothing more than fallen leaves, grass clippings and plant prunings.
Having said that, not all material are suitable for composting. Here’s the skull and crossbones list.
NEVER COMPOST THESE MATERIALS
•Meat, fish or dairy products (Attracts rodents and dogs)
•Dog or cat (or human) poop (contains unhealthy bacteria)
•Fats, oils, peanut butter, mayonnaise and salad dressings
•Weeds that have gone to seed or diseased plants
•Wood or charcoal ash. (makes soil too alkaline)
•Grass clippings or weeds treated with long-lasting herbicides
•Bones, Glass, plastic, metal and other non-biodegradable materials
Tools
You need only the most basic tools to start composting.
1.A compost bin. You can make or buy one at low cost. Most major US city sanitation departments hold free composting classes where they will sell you a compost bins at cost (Because composting helps them too). For classes in Los Angeles, click here . Or if you feel like taking a crack at making your own, here' s a great link that shows you how.
2. A pitchfork or compost turner (so you can aerate your pile).
If you’re the kind of person who likes to jump into things at the delux level, then you might want to consider:
3.A probe thermometer
4.A chipper/shredder
5.A wheelbarrow for transporting finished compost.
6.A large bucket or barrel for making compost tea.
Where do I start my Compost Pile?
You can start a compost pile almost anywhere, and while it’s not difficult to move it in the future, the first place you pick is most likely where it will stay. So here’s 4 things to consider when deciding on that spot:
1.Make sure the area is well-drained level, so that the compost can be piled evenly and water doesn’t pool. Pools of water beget smelly compost.
2.It’s not a deal-breaker, but partial shade is better than full sun as it allows greater moisture retention in the pile. Despite what people tell you, it’s the microbe’s job to heat your compost up, not the sun’s.
3.Make sure it’s at least a foot away from walls, fences, bushes or trees. The damp environment of the pile can cause wood to rot. And if you believe that great fences make great neighbors, be sure not to pile it up against theirs.
4.Find a place that’s convenient to both the source of materials and the place where the compost will be used. The more time you spend moving things back and forth, the lazier you become. Believe me. I know.
Building your Pile.
Once you’ve chosen a location for your pile, loosen the soil a little so that your compost will come into contact with the dirt. This will allow beneficial soil microorganisms to enter the pile easily.
Start your pile with a 4” to 6” layer of twigs or small branches to encourage airflow at the bottom of the pile.
Gather your organic materials (Greens and Browns), and have a shovel or pitchfork and a hose with a sprayer nearby so you can mix the materials and add moisture as you build.
Greens and browns should be mixed in a ratio of 2:1 by weight. That’s two parts Browns to one part Greens. Remember, because it’s calculated by weight the browns will be bulkier than the greens
Ideally you should have enough materials to build a pile that is 3’ x 3’ x 3’ in size. Starting with brown materials, layer greens and browns, mixing the materials and adding water as you go (the pile should be moist, like a really good blueberry muffin or a well-wrung sponge). Be sure to bury any food scraps in the center of the pile and finish with a brown layer.
Congratulations! You’ve just built a compost pile.
Now What?
•Wait a day or two, then check to see if it’s heating up in the middle. If it’s warm, tell everyone on Facebook how easy it is to start composting.
•If it’s not, check the moisture. If the pile is damp, add some greens to the pile to increase the nitrogen content. If it’s wet add some browns. It should have the moisture content of a well-wrung sponge.
•After a week or two, if the pile cools off, it’s time to turn your compost. Grab a pitchfork or compost turner and begin mixing and stirring the compost, turning the materials from the bottom to the top and from the inside to the outside. Add more water, if needed, and check it again in a couple days. The pile should start heating up again.
After a few rounds of turning, (anywhere from 6-12 weeks) the materials in your compost pile should be much harder to recognize, and beginning to look like peat moss—dark brown and crumbly. When you get to a point when, after turning the pile, it doesn’t heat up anymore, your compost is probably finished and it’s time to move on to the “curing” stage.
Is It Finished Yet?
Compost is finished when it is uniformly dark brown, crumbly, and earthy smelling. When you turn the pile, it should not heat up anymore, and you should not be able to recognize the original materials.
There are a couple tests you can do to make sure your compost is finished.
1.Place a handful of compost in an airtight bag, add a little extra water and seal it up. After a week, carefully open the bag and take a sniff. If it smells like wet potting soil, the compost is finished. If it stinks, it means your compost needs more time to finish decomposing.
2.You can also plant a few test seeds in a little of your compost and see if they germinate. If they do, and the seedlings look healthy, your compost is finished, and it’s time to cure your compost.
Curing
You may have heard that applying compost to your garden will burn plants or rob nitrogen from the soil. This is because sometimes, the microorganisms in the compost, when introduced to a fresh nitrogen source (such as a fertilized garden bed) will begin to rapidly reproduce and start the decomposition process again.
Curing compost allows many of these microorganisms to move on and prevents compost burn. To cure your compost, simply move the finished compost to a corner of the yard and let it sit for about four weeks before using on your plants.
What’s wrong? The trouble-shooting guide.
Possible Cause(s)
Too many green materials
Too much moisture/not enough air
Too dry or not enough green materials
Meat, fish or dairy in pile, or exposed food scraps
What to do
Add brown materials and mix well.
Turn the pile daily until the smell disappears. You may also want to add some bulky brown materials such as wood chips to increase airflow.
Check the moisture and add water if needed. If the pile is damp, mix in a few more green materials.
Remove any meat, fish or dairy. Make sure food scraps are buried in the center of the pile. Cover the pile with a layer of dry brown materials. If pests continue to be a problem, consider getting a compost bin with a lid.
Problem
My compost pile stinks like ammonia
My compost pile stinks like rotten
Eggs
My compost pile isn’t composting
My compost pile is attracting flies/ rodents/the neighbor’s dog
For Orders or Questions? 323 224 3938 or e-mail us
THE FARMERS’ MARKET
IN YOUR OWN BACK YARD
